Zinc Chromate?

[affa]

Tenkte jeg skulle lakke opp hjulbrønner og luker på min P47 med Zinc Chromate. Først: brukes det Zinc Chromate Yellow eller green på P-47? Eller er det Dark Dull Green som gjelder?

Har testa Warbirdscolor men den dekker jo ikke underlaget i det hele tatt om jeg ikke skal lakke over 10 ggr og det har jeg ikke tålmodighet til.

Andre forslag til lakk som fungerer her i riktig farge?

[Kyrre]

Det er ingen fast regel for dette, det lærte jeg da jeg drev med plastmodeller. Noen fly ble malt grønne over alt, noen bare i cockpit. Skal du ha det absolutt riktig må du finne bilder av modellen du skal gjenskape, men jeg har sett bilder av Thunderbolter med gule hjulbrønner. Som eks på hvor uregelmessig det kunne være så er visst 3 av ror pedalene i Enola Gay lysegrønne, mens den fjerde er mørk.

[affa]

Har akkurat lagt på 3-4 lag med warbird colors og airbrush og knapt det legger igjen farge. Det orker jeg bare ikke. Noen som har forslag til riktig gulfarge som dekker godt? Kan gjerne males på for min del

[SmurfAir]

Quick Emaljelakk fra Scanox dekker bra, men om de har "riktig" gulfarge i f.h. til det du ønsker vet jeg ikke.
Men de finnes i 32 forskjellige farger, og selges "overalt" bla. Byggmakker.
Sikkert ikke umulig å blande litt heller for å komme nært.

[Viggkri2]

Humbrol har rette fargen, den dekker veldig bra, men herder litt sakte. (nr 81)
Testors har også, men den har jeg ikke prøvd.

Viggo

[affa]

Da må jeg teste, har Testors gule zinc chromate her også.

Hva legger jeg oppå for å få det holdbart? Funker det med vannbasert matt gulvlakk?

Quick har ikke noe som passer i farge tror jeg. Dog var nok gussjegrønnfargen under krigen høyst varierende. Ser flere Thunderbolter hvor noen er gulegussje og andre grønngussje....

[Viggkri2]

Jeg har aldri tørt å prøve gulvlakk, det har blitt meg fortalt at den blir gul over tid, det spiller kanskje ingen rolle akkurat her.
Quick mattlakk kan du trygt bruke (for å få det holdbart ).

Viggo

[Eureka]

Det trenger ikke nødvendigvis være lakken det er feil på Alf....

Her er hva Phil Clark fra FighterAces i England skriver om Warbird colors.
Han har importert warbirdcolors til europa i 6-7 år, er profesjonell modellbygger som bruker kun warbirdcolors til, og selger warbirdcolors i store mengder over hele europa.


Basic rules for WBC...........(feel free to translate this and post it).



1) Forget ALL you know about spraying solvent based paints, spraying water based is completely different. If you thin it & spray it as per a solvent
paint, you WILL have trouble.

2) Thinning is best carried out with concentrated auto screen wash NOT water.
Screen wash is still water based but has a high alcohol content. This evaporates off faster than water so gives several benefits.

* Faster drying time

* As it evaporates faster, you can increase the thinning ratio to 25%, pretty much regardless of colour or what type/nozzle size of spray gear you
are using. If you add 25% water and spray in cooler conditions, you will have issues due to slow evaporation; too thin a mix and not enough surface
tension to hold the paint on the surface as it dries, hence the appearance of what appear to be fish eyes.
These are NOT fish eyes due to surface contamination, but fish eyes due to the paint being too thin & it pooling on the surface (hence you cannot treat a water based product like a solvent based product)

* Screen wash also has a detergent content, this is well know to help prevent against 'fish eye' problems (this is a tip I've picked up from
plastics modellers as they often use washing up liquid to thin their acrylic paints)

3) DO NOT try and get the paint to cover in 1 or 2 coats (regardless of colour). This product works MUCH better being applied very lightly in
multiple light mist coats. Not only does this speed drying time, it also reduces the amount of paint on the surface so reduced weight build up. 2-3
light mist coats are far better & have a far better covering power than 1 heavy coat. (The 2 photos attached show a Corsair wing in US Sea Blue after
1 coat......as you can see, a nice even finish, but you can still see the grey primer showing through underneath)

4) Think about the order in which colours are applied......if for example you have a white marking that has to be on top of a dark colour, DON'T paint
in this order......consider applying (as you should) the lightest colours 1st followed by the dark. White (in any brand of paint) will take multiple
coats to cover a dark colour, so as per the attached photos, apply the light colour 1st, mask these out then apply the dark.

5) WBC doesn't have to be applied over it’s own brand of primer, any solvent type primer can also be used (cellulose, 2K, epoxy, solvent acrylic aerosol etc....) So, if you have a dark camouflage, consider using a darker grey primer......if you have a light main colour, consider a very light grey or
even a white primer (especially if you are spraying white or yellow WBC).
The attached photos of the Miles Speed 6 in a cream & black colour scheme used a white primer on the wings & a medium grey on the fuselage.
The wings then had 3 light coats of cream, the fuselage just 2 coats of black.

6) Even when using screen wash to thin, it still evaporates off slower than a solvent thinner will, hence WBC is quite temperature critical.
It doesn't like cold conditions, so a heated environment it better. You can also 'force dry' the paint once applied.......gently blowing with a hair dryer works very well to warm the surface slight encouraging evaporation & speeding drying if your working environment is a little cold.



Kjell Aanvik
remotepilots.no
www.scalewarbird.no